KA24DE Engine help!

[MacDrizzle]

Hey what is up. I have a problem with my engine. Occationally when I fire it up it will jump to 1 grand then drop suddenly until the engine dies. It takes two tries to get it running if I don't apply throttle right away. I am lost on this. When you are tooling around town it seems to surge slightly yet when you get on it it picks up fine. That is until you hit about 4500 then it drops off a little then continues to accelerate fine. I have played with the timing abit at the track and have seen improvement on times but the problem still exists. Can anybody help me.

I am not sure if this is a factor but I removed one timing tensioner that was broken. Nissan said it is not neccesary to replace it as long as the other is fine. My problem now is the other one is making the same sound it did before and i am assuming it is broken or damaged. I don't know if this is associated with my engine surging but I am suspicious. I have priced out a complete timing set with sprockets for 320 bones. I was wondering if anybody had a better fix idea for this.

All help and suggestions will be much appreciated.

P.S. Please limit your SR20 swap suggestions I've heard them all before. KA is in my blood!

[e2blade]

some one just had this problem, they said it was the FPR going out

[MacDrizzle]

I must be a dumbass, what the hell is an FPR. Enlighten me please. Do you happen to know where that thread was.

Tanks, Mac

[Money]

Fuel Pressure Regulator.

[CHRIFFIN]

Your timing guides & tensioners won't make the car idle funky/surge.

A few things to check:

1) Make sure all vaccum lines are hooked up and not leaking.

2) Check your water temp sensor.

PM if you need some more help.

[MacDrizzle]

The feedback will get me started. Thank you, i'll keep you guys posted.

[zenkiderek]

mine does this too

[CHRIFFIN]

NOOBS

[MacDrizzle]

Yeah thanks for the help and the sarcasm. Yes I am new to engine shit on a KA, So fuckin' sue me!

[CHRIFFIN]

Yeah thanks for the help and the sarcasm. Yes I am new to engine shit on a KA, So fuckin' sue me!

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee144/1sik240sx/ezzbro.png

Did you try the above mentioned things yet?

[MacDrizzle]

Thanks for inquiring bro. I am concentrating on my clutch issue now thats where I spent my cash so im gonna wait on the other stuff. I've been dealing with it for awhile so a few more weeks ain't gonna kill me!

[DICKARM]

surging coud be a few different things man. mine used to do it and it turned out to be a few bad injectors......then it was the fuel pump.

your's sounds like a fuel issue because the water temp sensor usually only affects idle and the 2-3k surge. i had the same issues you were having.

[DICKARM]

is the check engine light on?

[MacDrizzle]

Yessir it is on! I was thinking it had to do with my cat being gone, maybe you are on to something, do tell. Do you have an aftermarket clutch in yours? How does it drive now if so?

[DICKARM]

Yes, I have an exedy with lightweight flywheel. it feels the same, but a little firmer pedal and quicker revs. What exactly is wrong with your clutch? Also, if you know how to pull codes from the ecu, lemme know what they are.

[MacDrizzle]

Bone stock, too many kicks, burnouts, etc... It is basically fried I ordered a Fidanza clutch kit and it should arrive sometime this week. As far as the codes I am not sure I have the correct tools for that. Shit im not even sure what the thing is called for an OBD 1!

[turbo2cam]

i am more than likely all wet here, but these are MAF cars right? the symptoms sound like a dirty MAF sensor to me....the car i own now is the first car ive ever owned with a MAF, so like i said...i could be all wet. just throwing it out there....ive read about similiar symptoms on cars like mine, and they were cured with a cleaning of the MAF...

[baardoon]

^^indeed, you will usually get better gas mileage too, i did it and it does wonders.

[DICKARM]

Bone stock, too many kicks, burnouts, etc... It is basically fried I ordered a Fidanza clutch kit and it should arrive sometime this week. As far as the codes I am not sure I have the correct tools for that. Shit im not even sure what the thing is called for an OBD 1!

you dont need any special tools to do this my friend. just pull the plastic cover off of the lower passenger kick panel, it will reveal the ecu. grab a 10mm socket with and extension and unbolt that puppy. the back of the ecu has a screw on it that you turn to put it in diagnostic mode. with the ignition on, turn the screw clockwise (if not clockwise...counter clockwise) and hold it there for 2 seconds then return to the position it was in. the check engine light will then begin to flash. it will be be and short and long pulses... for example a code 35 will have 3 fast flashes followed by 5 slow flashes. just sit there with a pen and paper writing them down. i have a link with all the codes for that ecu on my home comp, i'll post it up asap.

you doing the clutch yourself? if so, sounds like it'd be a good time to replace the slave and get rid of damper box that inline with the clutch lines...right before the slave i believe.

[DICKARM]

and it really sounds like your fuel pump is gonna die soon

[MacDrizzle]

Yeah Ima gonna replace it myself. I am getting a new pilot bushing. How much is that slave cylinder? I've heard of removing the damper box what exactly does it do and do you have to do massive replumbing or is it not even inline?

[turbo2cam]

if his fuel pump was going to die, it would cut out during a high load situation. there no load on the pump at all at idle, and when the pump is first kicked on, there is no heat. fuel pumps die from being over heated. if his symptoms were, studdering at low rpm, full throttle situations after he had been driving for 5-10 minutes....or the car randomly shutting off while driving, or studdering and bucking at completely random times....then yea i would agree with you on the fuel pump. but thats not the case. sounds like he has had this problem for a while....fuel pumps will die relatively quickly when they show symptoms.

[MacDrizzle]

Well ive had the car since 95. This problem seemed to have popped up around three years ago. IDFK! After the shortram and the full 2.5 pipe minus cat. I am lost. What is weird is the car still performs quite well except for the clutch. The motor only has 115,xxx miles. I guess ima drive it till she gives up the ghost. Then it will be play time!

[turbo2cam]

i would suggest cleaning the maf....if it happened after the short ram, it could be the problem. a typical hot wire MAF is self cleaning of dirt and grime etc, but the oil from an aftermarket air filter will cling to the hot wire, and dirt/grime will stick to the oil and the wire will not function properly. just my $.02

[MacDrizzle]

So you think some carburetor cleaner would do the trick, or is there something special I should use. Thanks for the insight!

[turbo2cam]

NO!

they make a specific cleaner that is for MAF's. CRC makes one that is readily available. vatozone or shmucks should carry CRC. carb cleaner will kill your MAF and they are NOT cheap....

[MacDrizzle]

That is why i asked bro, thanks

[MacDrizzle]

What up, Hey took whoevers advise to clean the MAF sensor! Worked like a goddamn charm! Starts up and stays running no more surge! Thanks guys!

[CHRIFFIN]

What up, Hey took whoevers advise to clean the MAF sensor! Worked like a goddamn charm! Starts up and stays running no more surge! Thanks guys!

Thank Turbo2cam

[turbo2cam]

glad you got it fixed....glad i could help ;)

[MacDrizzle]

glad you got it fixed....glad i could help ;)

Thanks man!

[MacDrizzle]

so I smoked my timing chain. Is this an interference motor, or a non? Hopefully I didn't slap valves. tell me Im ok.

has anybody done a complete replacement of a DOHC KA timing set? All help would be appreciatied

If anybody can call me so I can talk man to man it would be easier. Call the number below.

OG Auto

Thanks

Mac