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How to take pictures of your car. [Archive] - Garage208

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InSepsis
02-20-2009, 01:18 AM
Most of you on here seem to snap pictures of your cars every now and then so I figured I should post this up since it can be helpfull to everyone...


Here it is:


Lighting for detail
The perfect time to shoot a vehicle to show off its interior and overall surface qualities is midday on a partly cloudy or slightly overcast or hazy day. This is when the sun is at its highest which logically means the light will have the best angle into the interior. It is also the best kind of light - indirect. Indirect light is diffused (meaning the rays are scattered rather than in a straight line). Diffused light bounces and evens out a subject...

Direct bright sunlight is not good because its too bright and causes hard shadows. Most cameras (especially digital ones) dont handle those hard dark shadows really well. Shooting a vehicle in a shadow area (i.e. next to the house when the sun is on the other side) is also bad for obvious reasons. The shadow is dark!! The general rule in photography is more light the better. Just remember that the type of light (direct versus indirect) also makes a big difference.

http://www.digwig.com/files/evenlightingexample.jpg

Showin off the finish
Aaah the old "photo at sunrise/sunset" shot of a new vehicle. Its the unwritten rule of automobile marketing. Well, who can argue? Even an '86 Escort looks great in it! (No offense to those Escort owners here). This is for good reason. The best time of day to show off the lines of the vehicle and that glass-like paint finish is the first or last 1-1.5 hours of direct sun daylight when the sun is low on the horizon...you get that warm yellowish light and long dark shadows which provide nice contrast for the reflections in the paint.

Background
Remember the vehicle's immediate environment will be reflected in the finish, so a busy, highly detailed environment (like trees, buildings, etc) will end up complicating the reflections. Try to find a background or area around the car in that is low in detail or visual clutter. The ideal place is of course a green field, like a park or something with lots of distance between you and the nearest tree, building etc. The lower objects are the horizon (meaning the farther away you are from things like buildings, trees, etc) the better. If you live in an area with lots of hills you can also achieve this by finding a higher elevation to shoot on.

If you cant find someplace like this, find a plain, bright neutral colored background like the wall of a brick building. Remember you want your sweet ride to stand out as the subject of the photo, so the simpler the background the better. For vehicles that are colorful (like you Dakar and Hellrot folks), keep the background as neutral (meaning not colorful) as possible...For those of you more with more neutral colored vehicles (Cosmos, Arctic, Alpine) a solid colored, more vivid hue like red, green, yellow etc will provide a nice contrast. Of course, you can experiment with this to see what you like the best. Just remember that your red car will look different when surrounded by a yellow or green background.

http://www.digwig.com/files/dramaticlightingexample.jpg

Move it!!!!
Don't just park the vehicle and snap photos as you walk around it. Unless it is a perfectly overcast day (which is not good either) one side of the vehicle will be in shadow! Not good. Find the background you like, pick the best vantage point to shoot from, shoot, reposition the vehicle, shoot again...You get the idea.Think about what angles you want to shoot from too and if you are really anal about it, put a shot list together (front, rear, profiles, 3/4 fronts and rears, etc). I know, it takes a little extra effort, but once you see the results you'll be glad you put the extra effort in. Oh, and if you are shooting at sunset, remember to work quickly...the last hour of daylight goes REALLY fast and believe it or not 10 minutes can make a huge difference between a great shot and something that looks too dark.


Avoid using the flash if possible.
We've seen lots of pics on this forum shot with a flash and we all know its about the most unflattering way to show off your sweet ride http://images.bimmerforums.com/smilies/smile.gif Generally, most autoexposure cameras meter the light of a subject in several areas, then average the light reading to decide if the light level is too low. If it is, the flash will kick in. Remember this, if the background of the picture is MUCH darker than the car than when the camera takes the average light level it will think its too dark and use the flash. This means dont shoot your vehicle against a dark background if you can help it. For those of you shooting black vehicles, well you are gonna have a hard time regardless. The only way to ensure the flash doesnt kick in is either:
A) MAKE SURE THERE IS ENOUGH LIGHT!
B) TURN IT OFF MANUALLY


Spot metering, fill cards, tripods and other advanced Stuff
For those of you who wanna experiment, most digital and SLR cameras have a little crosshair in the middle of the viewfinder. While most cameras use average light metering, you may be able to set the camera to look at ONLY the brightness of what is in the center of that little crosshair. This is usually called SPOT metering. While pointing the spot at a darker or shadow area of the vehicle, pressing halfway down on the shutter button will PREMETER the exposure. Without pressing all the way down or releasing the button, you then move the viewfinder to compose the shot accordingly, then PRESS ALL THE WAY DOWN. THis way the camera will adjust the exposure to use that DARKER area as the average light, meaning it will expose longer to let in more light. Make sure you have disabled your flash with this approach. Confused yet?

For close ups of areas that are hard to photograph because they are too dark, or interior areas, you can try using a fill card. A fill card is nothing more than a LARGE WHITE board. Most are made out of cardboard or foam core, a graphic mounting material. Anything reflective like tin foil works too. Position the card just out of the composition and angle it until you see the reflected light hit the subject area that's dark. You can hold it yourself, or bring an assistant to hold it who also loves your car http://images.bimmerforums.com/smilies/smile.gif

And finally, if you really want to be able to play with exposure for light and depth of field, get a tripod. Sometimes, in order to have a long enough exposure to get the shadow areas in your photo, the camera will want to set the shutter speed to something slower than even the steadiest hand can hold without causing image blurring. A tripod lets you manually adjust the shutter speed and/or aperture (also called f stop which is the little iris like thingy inside the lens that lets light in). What is depth of field? Well, simply put its the distance interval the camera lens can see in focus. You can play with that if you want to blur the background out rather than have it be nice and sharp. See this link(http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glos...f_field_01.htm (http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Photographic/Depth_of_field_01.htm)) for more info on that!


I found it very usefull and I found this on www.bimmerforums.com

mittens
02-20-2009, 07:38 AM
Tldr...

Good post. You should make a wright up on how to shoot indoors and or with artificial light.

InSepsis
02-20-2009, 08:19 AM
I figured some 90+% of the members won't have the equipment for indoor and artificial light shooting so I left that out... if there is more interested in it I might post it up one of these days.

e2blade
02-20-2009, 12:32 PM
do an HDR write up, im still learning...slowly

Tom
03-16-2009, 09:46 PM
do an HDR write up, im still learning...slowly
In my oh so very humble opinion…
Let me help you. It gets overused. As in just about everything, For every picture there is probally one or two setting that will look really good. Sepia, looks REALLY good. But only sometimes. B&W is the same thing. HDR follows suit. as with manythings in the creative/art world, it is all about the suttle things.

isboosted
04-07-2009, 01:27 AM
Nice write up. I just learned hella new tricks and tips. Thanks :)

zenkiderek
04-17-2009, 11:11 AM
i agree, nice write up.

zenkiderek
04-17-2009, 01:31 PM
so i'm a photo n00b. i picked up a Sony a200 a year ago which is one of the cheapest DSLR's in the market and i would like the picture quality to improve. would it be better investment to get a new lens or a used camera that is better quality?

cedge208
10-04-2009, 01:29 PM
I think the rule of thirds is important too.

Rob
10-18-2009, 07:23 PM
so i'm a photo n00b. i picked up a Sony a200 a year ago which is one of the cheapest DSLR's in the market and i would like the picture quality to improve. would it be better investment to get a new lens or a used camera that is better quality?

Not that I'm a photography buff by any means (and quite frankly even though I'm young most of my experimentation with photography was on film) but this is a hard one to answer. With digital photography and film photography both the glass and the body are quite important. Without knowing much about the body of your camera or your current lens I can't really offer anything beyond that but I'm sure Mirko or someone else can.

InSepsis
10-18-2009, 08:15 PM
With sony it's an issue...

You are better off picking up a older prosumer canon or nikon body... (20d or 30d and I don't know nikon model numbers...) for fairly cheap... Technique, post processing and glass are the most important things in my opinion... I don't mind working with me old rebel as long as I have a good quality sharp glass on it....

DubstepDave
10-18-2009, 09:24 PM
Exactly like Mirko said, I would sell what you've currently got and pick up either a Canon 20D or 30D for cheap, or if you would like to go Nikon, the D80 and D200 are pretty cheap now (all of these options would be used) and pick up a few decent lenses (Nikon 16-85VR is supposedly a GREAT consumer lens that's super sharp, and always the 50mm f/1.8 from either brand and something like a 70-300 or so for reach. If you want to shell out a little cash, get an older Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 which can be had used for under $600.)

SICK620
02-25-2010, 10:49 PM
nice post :smiley:

csweston
02-26-2010, 05:18 PM
Thanks for the post. Im a total newb when i comes to this stuff. Just picked up a olympus e500, sloooowwwlyyyy trying to figure this out :)